Some of this wonderfulness is no doubt owing to the 12 to 18 months of slow pit-tannage with ground oak bark tan liquor, instead of extracts, which produces a naturally lighter weight, open and airy material, and the fact that no sugars or other adulterants are loaded in there to attract ambient moisture from the air to increase the weight.
Colloquy sneakers crack#
I find through personal use and customer feed-back: 1) it stays "drier" feeling underfoot than *any* other veg-tanned leather, never clammy or damp 2) all but eliminates foot odor in the shoe or boot 3) darkens but doesn't chemically "burn" or turn black and crack 4) is lighter weight per thickness than *any* other veg-tanned insoling, which, since it's sold by weight, makes it not as scary as one might imagine 5) and *if* you ever use iron nails in the heel-seat, it won't "gall" as badly or as fast as regular veg-tanned insoling-BTW I only use brass nails when I don't peg or sew the seat. Maybe one of our UK or European colleagues could chime in here. "Document" which details? The British National Health specifying strictly pit-tanned oak bark insoling? It's in one or more of the more recent textbooks, as you have, Thorntom's I think, but in all events that's what's keeping Baker's afloat business-wise. I imagine a reversed insole might tend to eat socks? I dunno. I've never made or worn reversed insoles, so I have no personal opinions except, having worn unlined uppers with the flesh inside, they will eat through socks faster than lined, or grain-in uppers, but the reduced slipperiness/friction is an advantage in hiking and utilitarian boots. I'd still think you'd be faced with buffing the smooth grain off first, to avoid horrible squeaking later. Also, I now seem to recall strengthening the inseam was another alleged advantage-if you're making your inseam on the grain-side, you're working in the densest, tightest fibers, so it might not be so apt to cut through or tear out. Like I'd said, the only reasons I've ever heard for reversing the insole was to reduce slippage of the foot on the insole surface, and to reduce the problems of the grain cracking. Whether the flesh might take a deeper imprint in wear than the grain is anybody's guess. Love those bonuses! In my opinion, this approach.all things being equal (except the thickness of the insole, of course ) is both conceptually *and* functionally just as elegant as the other approach. And, as a bonus, the inseam is protected by the feather and at the same time there is no "curling" of the feather to speak of. The holdfast is roughly 5 iron, and the lip of the feather is roughly 5 iron, and the welt is roughly 5 iron.and it all works together quite marvelously. The feather is cut to produce a "rabbett" into which the welt, theoretically, fits.again as an extension of the insole. With a thicker insole, it's much like your scheme to split the insole in half and then glue it back together. Get too close to the vamp especially with a curved needle machine, and the inseam gets chewed up. Follow me? That's good.heck, it's even "elegant." But functionally, the inseam is vulnerable. If the insole is thin-roughly 5-6 iron-and no real feather is cut into the edge (maybe the edge is just beveled a bit) then the welt becomes an extension of the insole. I was thinking about this the other day.how does the welt fit into the boot "schematically" so to speak. Again, I fail to see the problem.all things being equal.
Frankly-and here I'm sure I will display the extent of my ignorance and wrong-headedness-I'd use a heavier (maybe not as heavy as a boot) insole even if I were making dress shoes. I'm no "princess and the pea" but I don't want to feel every pebble, BB, and deer pellet underfoot. One other point in passing, as it has come up again.Follow me here, if you will.*if* the "heavy" insoles I put into your boots (and they weren't Baker's) were not noticeably stiff *if* they did not crack "before their time" and *if* they have given you a reasonable footbed (not expecting the same kind of footbed you would get with your approach), I fail to see the downside to using a thicker insole.
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